Vietnam’s national dress, the áo dài is one of the country’s most striking symbols of beauty. Over hundreds of years, the áo dài has evolved alongside Vietnam, going from regal to practical, humble to high fashion, and back again. The Vietnamese áo dài is appreciated by the young and old alike, and its elegant lines flatter both men and women.
A Brief History of the Ao Dai
Though scholars disagree on whether the modern ao dai has its roots in southern or northern Vietnam, which were separate kingdoms in the 18th century, both regions did have costumes that gained prominence simultaneously. A fair compromise might be to say trousers and term ao dai is derived from the South, while the long, womanly tunic came from the North.
Cham Ao Dai of the South
In 1744, Nguyen Phuc Khoat, ruler of southern Vietnam, decreed that all male and female nobility must don a very loose-fitting, front-buttoned gown and trousers. In order to curry favor with the native Cham people, the ao dai drew influences such as colors and patterns from their centuries-old attire.
Ao Tu Than and Ao Ngu Than of the North
Simultaneous to the Cham-inspired ao dai were two styles of dress in northern Vietnam. The 4-part ao tu than was worn by working-class women and comprised of a loose outer tunic, a long skirt, an undergarment shirt and cloth sash tied around the waist. The shirt is open in front, similar to a bathrobe, while darker colors were preferred due to its likelihood of getting dirty through manual labor.
Conversely, women from high society sported the 5-part ao ngu than (pictured above-left). Unlike its lower class counterpart, the ao ngu had a closed front, brighter colours, raised collar and did not require a cloth belt. The most crucial element which would be adapted into the modern ao dai were the hanging flaps in front and back, along with the trademark side slits.
When to wear áo dài
Vietnamese women love wearing áo dài for photo shoots in beautiful settings. Golden Autumn days in Hanoi call for photo sessions around Hoàn Kiếm Lake. During Tết (Lunar New Year) you’ll see the dress in all its glory as women wear it to visit friends and family and pay tribute at temples and shrines. A wedding is the perfect time to wear one’s best áo dài. In Vietnam, the bride and groom and the wedding entourage will wear elaborate áo dài at the traditional ceremony, then guests will show up for the reception in simpler but equally colorful designs.
